Tuesday, 27 April 2010
Another Rainy Day in Quadra...
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Nanaimo (Nan-eye-mow)
In more words: nice but bland
We left you last time whizzing away from the delight that is the Turtle Hostile (sic) in Victoria, this time heading to Nanaimo, toward the Painted Turtle Guest House. They love their turtles over here, something to do with being safe under the shell!
The following day, after a great night’s sleep I got up early and ran along the harbour which was great; lots of boats, the odd dog walker, a “good morning” to the Easter bunnies and that was pretty much that, great morning run. Head back to get Tim, have a quick shower, then out to a cafe for breakfast before we are forced to volunteer to join the jolly Easter Sunday brunch organized by the hostel managers. Now don’t get us wrong, we like the hostel… and the brunch was a great idea, but when you’re only there for one day and you can’t get in the kitchen to make breakfast as it’s full of the rest of the hostel painting boiled eggs, we’re heading out to find food! Had a lovely breakfast in a lively café, where someone at the next table pulled out an early ‘80s mobile phone, about the size of a house brick, to the delight of his friends… a funny reminder of the past and I thought it was quite ironic that someone else at the table took a photo of it on their iPhone.
Back to the water-front to find a little ferry that would take us over to one of the two islands near Nanaimo called Newcastle and Protection. When the ferry eventually arrived, it was only going to (the smaller) Protection Island and as we had been told Newcastle Island had more interesting walks etc. we hopped-off to find the Newcastle ferry – which was actually more like a floating parmesan cheese grater (you know the one that Bodum make!), only to be told by some locals crabbing on the floating pontoon (and getting some really big snapping beasties too) that the ferry to Newcastle wasn’t making any more trips due to sea conditions… so we head back to the first ferry (with a presumably braver captain). He remembered us from our previous wait (an hour previous) and told us all about Protection Island; what it does have is a beach, a light house and wait for this the only floating pub in Nanaimo….a selling feature indeed. We hand over $8 for a return ticket and head out onto the choppy sea crossing which thankfully only lasts 20mins. We get dropped off at the floating pub, but decided to explore the island before exploring the bar.
Next stop: Tofino where we should hopefully have a whale of a time (Geddit? No? Oh, I forgot to mention it’s a top spot for whale watching).
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Vancouver Island - Part1
It was a sunny, blustery day and the ferry crossing was nice but uneventful. Dock. Unload. Remember which side of the road to drive on. Head to Victoria; the closest main coastal town and our next new home. As we entered Victoria it appeared to be another identikit town comprising the complete set of stores and diners (Walmart, London Drugs, A&W, Tim Hortons etc). We headed straight for our next accommodation: the Turtle Hostel. We nearly carried straight on. We met our new host Shu, a virtually incomprehensible Chinese lady (in fairness, her English was slightly better than my Chinese). She explained that whilst –technically – we could park on the street, it would be much more secure to pay her an extra $5 to park in the front of her place (or in her words, if you park on the street, you WILL get broken into). We paid.
One of the nice things about the trip is that we are always finding new and different places… this particular place was small and dark and best summed up by this photo.
Time for a stroll around town. We arrived on the same day as a massive storm broke across the island. Being right on the coast, Victoria suffered as much as any. Honestly they must have alot of wet weather here as we came across this camper that had definetly shrunk in the wash....
After, we took a loooong walk along sea front. We saw massive starfish in the bay and harbour-seals would pop up every now and again, but what we thought might be a whale turned out to be two scuba divers. Earlier, I had obtained a metatarsal-pad to hopefully cure a very painful ball of my foot which had been with me since the start of journey. The pad cured the pain (yeah!) but I ended up with blisters upon blisters by the end of the walk. Due to our desire to get away from our abode as soon as possible, we missed the massive explosion from the power lines outside our building around 10:00am that morning (due to gales). What this meant for us was no power until 9:00pm that night, though bizzarely, Shu managed to find electricity for one light and the oven /hob still worked (though a pan of water took over an hour to reach boiling point). Strangely the conditions unified the spirit within the hostel and we had a great night exchanging stories between the various Scots, Aussies, Americans and Brits (including a woman who shoes horses in Birkhampstead!).
What people tend to do on a wet Sunday in Victoria is go to the biggest “thrift” store we have ever seen, really there are some true finds and some fantastic people watching, with plenty of “stuff” to view (as you can tell Victoria really isn’t a fun place with that much weather), but heading out along the road we did come along is this beauty of a BBQ, Katy insisted we take a picture for all you Percy Pig, M&S type people, (honestly she’s always working!) Hope you appreciate it, maybe an idea for the summer gardening range?
Gales and rain continued and people turned up looking for a bed all through the night. By morning, my previously half full dorm was completely full and for once I wasn’t the main snorer (some of you might remember my facebook entry from the time which was written at 2:30am as I lay wide awake sure that Jeremy was about to be broken in to). As a special treat after the previous night (and lets face it, the accommodation was pretty cheap),we treated ourselves to breakfast at a café… anything to avoid the hostel kitchen! Being Easter Sunday, the town was virtually closed but after some wandering we found Willies.
As you can tell Victoria in bad weather on a tight budget and dire accommodation really doesn’t have a lot going for it, so we arranged with Shu that we would be outta there first thing the following morning. Katy was up at 7am, getting her own back being loud and packing around the grumpy, stinky Israeli, by the time I got up Katy had packed the van and was waiting in the “reception area” for us to get the hell out of Dodge. So we did, leaving on a bonus that we hadn’t paid for the extra night parking and had more cash in hand as we we’re given an extra $10 for key deposit, so leaving Victoria on a high and heading to our new home, Tofino.. go go go, fingers crossed for a better experience……we’ll keep you posted!
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
Vantastic Vancouver
[note: as I write this, seven bald eagles are soaring on the thermals directly above me and in the tree in front of me, four red-headed woodpeckers are doing what woodpeckers do best!]
In the previous episode, we were just leaving Whistler in the middle of what turned out to be a dumping of 70cm of snow over three days. As some of you will know, when it’s snowing up there… its absolutely pouring with rain down here (cats and groundhogs to be precise)! We headed toward Vancouver on the Sea to Sky highway which all the guide books had forewarned us was the most spectacular of road trips: 100km of majestic views and awe inspiring vistas… set cameras and camcorders to stun! What we actually saw was a fog-bound highway which had temporarily turned into a river. Undaunted and with pac-a-mac’s at the ready, we stopped-off at one of the many tourist attractions dotted along the highway: we were met by a big yellow barrier and a sign informing us that this natural wonder was closed until May… hrmmph! We stopped off at another (Brackendale) notable for being home to large numbers of bald eagles… they’d all migrated a month earlier leaving us with just a duck to look at. In the rain.
Back in the red rocket, we eventually reached Squamish with a stop that was open: Stawamus Chief (a most impressive monolith) and Shannon Falls; as if to celebrate, the rain also paused briefly to allow us to enjoy the stop that little bit more. It is easy to become complacent about the vastness of nature around here, but the waterfalls were very impressive; the torrents of water flowing over and crashing into the massive rocks was almost mesmerizing, churning the water until it looked like a freshly popped bottle of champagne.
After I’d realized I’d been staring at the water for quite some time, I wandered back to the trail where I found Katy pretending to be a tree.
On with the journey. On with the rain. We approached Vancouver increasingly desperate for fuel and with only a vague idea of where we were going (TomTom mysteriously having deleted all its files). We followed a sign for fuel which unfortunately took us miles away from the highway… but fortunately (and completely coincidentally) it was the right road. Having purchased petrol and a map we continued on our way and promptly got lost again as we got caught up in our first rush-hour for two months (Its ok, we’re talking to each other again now). Back on track we headed over the bridge taking us into Vancouver but not before driving through Stanley Park: a welcome – if brief – return to greenery. After some fairly pain-free navigation, we made it to our next temporary home: Jericho Beach HI Hostel. Right by the coast and surrounded by fields; it was a big but uninspiring white block.
In its previous life, the hostel was apparently used for military housing (haven’t had chance to google it yet). As such it was an efficient rather than cosy stay! Big rooms housing up to 18 people (but only five in ours, including us); huge bathrooms and a massive kitchen (but bizarrely, no oven). The facilities were fine but this was the first ‘city’ hostel (rather than snowy-mountain hostel); consequently some of the other residents were both older and weirder. We kept mainly to ourselves.
The hostel was on the outskirts of Kitsilano, which itself was on the outskirts of Vancouver city. Kitsilano appears to be quite a trendy district, housing all manner of independent businesses: boutiques, bakeries, bars… anything beginning with b really. It is also home to Sophies Cosmic Café, where we treated ourselves to breakfast. If I were being typically cynical I would say it was like a junk shop which sells food; but in the spirit of the place I can report it was a quirky place full of memorabilia which served a very respectable bacon and eggs and a wicked turkey sandwich whilst surrounded by Miss Piggy, Peewee Herman and the Queen (gawd bless ‘er). The place was packed with people and we were lucky to get the last table for two.
Refueled, we walked into Vancouver City; a not inconsiderable walk which included Granville bridge where we looked over Granville Island. Into the city and to be honest, we were a bit disappointed; we wandered around many of the streets but didn’t find anything of significant interest. The place seemed to be going through a post-olympic hangover; it must’ve been a hell of a party! All things related to the Olympics were either in the process of being removed or had already been removed. We came to the conclusion that it’s a place that can only really be enjoyed if you have a bit of spare cash (we don’t!). We found JappaDog but unfortunately not until after we’d already had lunch. Maybe next time.
We wandered the rest of the city and ended up at Canada Place, walked along the harbour, watched sea-planes flying this way and that and took photos of geese. From there we strolled along Gas Town – the old part of town – full of expensive shops and bars… we strolled on!
From there we headed toward Chinatown which was only a few streets away, but what a couple of streets… I am still amazed that we didn’t get mugged! Just a couple of streets down from Gas Town appeared to be a holding-pen for all of vancouver’s homeless / drug addicts / down-and-outs… and for a few minutes, us! With anything remotely valuable hidden, we kept our heads down and carried on walking… it was like being back in London! We eventually made it to Chinatown unscathed but didn’t bother staying long. Altogether a bit of a disappointment.
A bright new sunny day and things are looking up! We decided to head to Cypress Mountain (home of snowboarding for the Olympics) for its first day re-opening since the end of the games and after a massive dump of snow... result! Best boarding conditions so far and the lift pass was half that of Whislter. I confess that this hasn’t been the epic snowboarding trip we’d dreamed of (for several reasons) but that was a great day. I like to think that having shared the same slope as Shaun White we now also share some of his star qualities :o) To finish off a great day we stopped off at Granville Island: a small collection of quirky shops dominated by a large indoor market. Vancouver is definitely a place to return to if/when we have money again!
PS - To our list of 'firsts' we can now add a hummingbird and... a bear!!
Thursday, 8 April 2010
‘Firsts’ since we’ve been in Canada…
- Otters
- Bald Eagle (watching the otters)
- Chipmunk
- Rambo film set
- Car auction
- Plymouth Voyager!
- 1000 miles in Jezza
- Nearly running outta gas
- Ferry
- Canadian coastal storm
- Power-cut
- Ice hockey match
- Canadian Trivial Pursuit (virtually impossible for the group of british, aussie and kiwi teams playing… and even some canadians)
- Whale!
- Greyhound Bus
- Natural hot-springs
- Eggs Benny on a Bench
- Cougar / wolf / big dog (he disappeared too quickly)
- Grebes
- Beard (Tim)
- Snowboarding on the same slope as Shaun White
- Rainforest
- Motel
- Youth Hostel
- TimBits :o)
- Snow-shoeing
- Breakfast pasty
- Topiary peacock
Saturday, 3 April 2010
Reveling in Revelstoke
Saturday: left Rossland mid-morning heading for Revelstoke which has been recommended by many people. We ended up going through Nelson again and decided to stop at Ainsworth Hot Springs which was ‘sort of’ on the way. The hot springs were about the size and shape of a swimming pool (surprise!) with the addition of a horseshoe shaped cave pool. It is set on the side of a hill, at the bottom of which is an immense section of the Kootenay lake, by far the biggest lake I’ve ever seen and home to the Ogopogo (their equivalent of our Lochness monster, ie, doesn’t really exist but gets a few more tourists in). Dare I say it again but the views really are breathtaking!
Our current residence is not too bad. We have an 8 bed dorm all to ourselves plus we have a double bed – bonus!! We’re in the basement so is pretty quiet; looking out of our bedroom window we are at lawn level!
We’re sharing it with a couple of Aussies (natch) plus a few Germans who are as bitter as us about the irony of how much snow Europe is having. It’s about $10 a night more expensive than other places we’ve stayed and I am currently struggling to understand why. Never mind, still way cheaper than the alternatives.
We managed to have a Skype video chat with mum & dad (Marsh) yesterday which was great - so lovely to see and talk with them :o) And today we had a leisurely morning with time to skype-text Lady Chandler and Mikey. We love technology and free wi-fi!
As I write this now I am in the Revelstoke day lodge halfway up the mountain… I should be looking out of the window at people whizzing by on snowboards and skis but all I can see is mud and stone, it’s a sorry sight. Conditions are BAD! Most of the mountain is closed, but unsurprisingly Katy is up there somewhere… apparently the snow at the top of the mountain is still really good, but I begrudge paying full ticket price when you can only get to ~20% of the mountain.
As a consequence of the poor snow, we move on again tomorrow. We’re slowly making our way to Whistler; it’s around a six hour straight drive so we’ll probably take our time and do it over two days as there are a few interesting places to see on the way: Kamloops, Hells Gate and my particular favourite… Spuzzum! We might also call in at Chilliwak which is where I think Jerem-y came from (or at least got ‘pimped’) :o)
Whistler while you work
So leaving Revelstoke bright and early we headed to our next stop: Hope County. The drive truly was breath-taking and another sunny day to get through the mountains, useful for avoiding boulders!
Leaving Hope bright and early and in search for fuel for both Jeremy and us we found a gas station and diner, result! all fully fuelled we set off to Whistler following Highway 1 then cutting off to what I would call a trail, Canadians call highway 12! We we’re heading along the Fraser Canyon that would lead us to Hells Gate where the Fraser River reaches its awesome crescendo, well that is if the viewing station is open which is wasn’t, (you’ll want to go between April-October), so we drove past it and carried on along our way thinking something so big, surely we’ll be able to see it, well not if you’re driving on the other side to the canyon and there is no stopping because you’re in an avalanche area. So there you go, a shame but I’m sure we’ll see bigger better Canyon’s on our way, well there’s the Grand Canyon to name one.
We had a lovely sleep in our new home and got up early for the drive to Whistler to hit the slopes, we got there and it was so very wet, but in true boarding mind “raining down here, snowing up there”…so I bought a pass and left Tim heading to the coffee shops at the base station and I went up into the clouds, now the “snowing up there” line is true but it was a blizzard. Honestly, so windy and snowy I couldn’t tell where I was or which way up I was at some points, not good on a mountain you don’t know, so staying in the trees for a bit of helpful visuals a tried to enjoy myself not knowing really what I was about to jump off or into. By 1.30pm I needed food and water so headed down in the gondola to meet Tim, with walkie-talkie trying to call him, now it would seem I may of landed on my walkie talkie as I could hear Tim but he couldn’t hear me and Whistler village is a vast place of coffee shops and bars, so after walking around in the rain going into several shops trying to find Tim I decided I should go back up onto the mountain and make the most of the extortionate ski pass, so off I went with an emergency granola bar to a blanket of “the white abyss” I wouldn’t say it was a great day, but it was an experience. Eventually I met up with Tim at Jeremy he must of sensed my” time to go and eat” vibes, as he arrived only a few minutes after :)
We had arranged to pop into our next stay place to give our credit card details so we drove through Whistler to Alta lake, where the Hi Whistler hostel is situated - right on the lake with the most amazing views. When we got there we had to wait a while for the guy to arrive so we just watched the ice on the lake; as we watched, two little heads appeared - otters just swimming and doing their stuff, breaking through the ice and then as we were watching them a (massive) bald eagle landed on the ice and just sat and watched too, needless to say we’re looking forward to our Whistler stay. So our nature handbook is getting quite a few ticks. After that we headed back to our wooden home, the hot tub had been put on for us to use if we wanted, it was outside under a gazebo overlooking the mountains, we decided against it. Tim wasn’t shedding any clothes and I had had a shower and was very snug and warm, but a lovely thought :)
We left Pemberton for Whistler in the morning sorry to say goodbye to our lovely home and lovely hosts, but we knew we had a new lovely home to hang out at Whistler itself is by no surprise an expensive place to live, so we did a lot of walking and cooking in our new home. It had a lovely feel about it, right on the lake, very relaxing until a train went by (trains and hostels seem to be inextricably linked!) you had to cross the tracks to get to the hostel via some pretty steep wooden steps. We did lots of reading and I ran round the lake which was lovely lovely lovely. As the days went by all the ice quickly melted on the lake and we didn’t see our otters or eagle again. Apparently it’s rare to have seen them at all, so we felt lucky indeed, unfortunately have no photographic evidence of our nature viewing as the dumb-arse aussie went outside and scared them off before I returned with the camera so you’ll just have to take my word for it. Honestly that bird was HUGE! It will be even more rare to see soon as the hostel closes this year (the value of the land must be massive!); there is a new purpose built hostel just being finished in Whistler village. We met (another!) nice Aussie called Erin who had been working at the games and told us all the stories about it (she was right by the bobleigh course)... i believe she was 'stoked'! And she gave us a few more horror stories about Australian wildlife :-()